Princess Cut Diamond Guide - Everything You Need to Know

The princess cut diamond is the second most popular diamond shape in the world, and the most popular square diamond by a wide margin.

It combines the brilliant sparkle of a round diamond with crisp, geometric lines that feel distinctly modern and bold.

Here's everything you need to know before you choose one.

---

What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

A princess cut diamond is a square or slightly rectangular diamond with sharp, unrounded corners and a modified brilliant-cut facet arrangement.

It's sometimes described as a "square brilliant", and the name is accurate. The facets are arranged to maximise light reflection in the same way as a round brilliant, but within a square outline.

What Shape Is a Princess Cut Diamond?

A princess cut is square with sharp, pointed corners.

Most have a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05, keeping them close to a true square. Ratios above 1.05 produce a slightly rectangular appearance.

The sharp corners are the shape's most distinctive feature, and also its one structural consideration (more on that below).

How Many Facets Does a Princess Cut Diamond Have?

Princess cut diamond facets typically number 58, arranged in a brilliant-cut pattern adapted for a square outline.

Some cutting styles produce between 50 and 58 facets, depending on the cutter. Each facet is positioned to direct light back through the top of the stone, producing strong brilliance and fire across the entire square face.

---

Princess Cut Diamond History

The princess cut diamond has a more layered origin than most people realise.

An early version, the "profile cut", was created by Arpad Nagy in 1961. It was refined over the following two decades and formally developed as the princess cut in the 1980s by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz.

By the 1990s, the princess cut had become the second most popular diamond shape globally, a position it still holds today. Its appeal: round-diamond brilliance inside a bold, architectural square form.

---

What Does a Princess Cut Diamond Mean?

A princess cut diamond carries both visual and symbolic meaning.

The sharp geometry of the princess cut is often associated with:

• Strength and confidence - defined corners project clarity and decisiveness

• Modernity - a deliberate move away from soft, rounded traditional shapes

• Sophistication - geometric precision combined with high brilliance creates a striking, considered impression

Choosing a princess cut diamond engagement ring tends to say something specific: the wearer is drawn to clean lines, contemporary design, and a ring that makes a quiet, confident statement.

---

Princess Cut vs Round Cut Diamond

The princess cut vs round cut comparison is one of the most common questions in diamond buying.

The main reason princess cut diamonds cost less per carat than rounds is that cutting a square shape wastes less of the original rough stone. That saving flows directly to the buyer.

For a deeper comparison, see our round cut diamond guide.

---

Solitaire vs Princess Cut - How They Compare

This is a point of confusion worth clarifying directly.

Solitaire describes a ring setting, one diamond on a plain band with no accent stones. Princess cut describes the diamond shape.

A princess cut solitaire is one of the most popular engagement ring combinations. When people ask about solitaire vs princess cut, they're usually comparing:

• Round solitaire - classic, maximum brilliance, timeless look

• Princess cut solitaire - bold and geometric, slightly less expensive per carat, strong modern presence

Both are excellent choices. The decision comes down to whether the wearer prefers soft curves or sharp, defined angles.

---

Is a Princess Cut Diamond Good?

Yes, a princess cut diamond is a strong choice for several reasons:

• Very high brilliance, close to round diamond light performance

• Bold, geometric silhouette that suits contemporary and modern ring styles

• Less expensive per carat than round diamonds of equivalent quality

• Works across solitaire, halo, channel-set, and bezel settings

• Suits engagement rings, earrings, pendants, and wedding bands

The one consideration: The sharp corners are a mild structural vulnerability.

Over years of daily wear, unprotected corners can chip from impact. This is easily addressed with V-tip prongs or a corner bezel setting, both of which protect the corners completely without covering the diamond's face. Properly set, a princess cut diamond wears well for decades.

---

Are Princess Cut Diamonds Out of Style?

No, princess-cut diamonds are not out of style.

They remain the second most popular diamond shape globally, and in Australia, they continue to be a consistently requested cut, particularly among buyers who prefer geometric, architectural engagement ring designs over organic, elongated shapes.

What has changed: oval, pear, and elongated shapes have grown significantly in popularity over the past three years. Some buyers who previously would have chosen princess are now choosing oval.

But "out of style" overstates the shift. The princess cut diamond has a permanent place in modern jewellery design. Couples drawn to square, geometric rings choose it first, and that preference isn't going anywhere.

---

Modern Princess Cut Diamonds in 2026

The modern princess cut diamond is seeing renewed interest in two specific configurations in 2026:

Princess cut in yellow gold: The warmth of 18K yellow gold against the sharp square silhouette creates a vintage-contemporary contrast that feels current. Yellow gold also allows slightly warmer colour grades, I-J, without visible warmth.

Lab-grown princess cut diamonds: A lab-grown princess cut delivers identical facet precision, cut quality, and IGI or GIA certification at significantly lower cost than a natural stone. This has made larger, higher-quality princess cuts accessible to more Australian couples.

East-west princess cut settings: Setting the square diamond horizontally along the finger gives the princess cut a fresh, architectural look that feels distinctly 2026.

Explore princess cut engagement rings →

---

Natural vs Lab-Grown Princess Cut Diamond

A high quality princess cut diamond, natural or lab-grown, should have Excellent or Very Good symmetry, a length-to-width ratio of 1.00-1.05, and show even, consistent sparkle across all four quadrants.

Browse lab-grown princess cut diamonds →

---

How to Choose a High Quality Princess Cut Diamond

Always view the diamond face-up.

An unbalanced princess cut diamond will show darker areas in one or two corners. Even light distribution across all four quadrants is the clearest indicator of a well-cut stone.

---

Best Settings for Princess Cut Diamonds

The sharp corners of a princess cut need careful setting consideration:

• V-prong solitaire - the most popular choice; prongs sit directly in each corner and protect the points

• Channel setting - princess cuts fit naturally into channels, with flat edges sitting flush against the channel walls

• Bezel setting - a full bezel protects all four corners completely, ideal for very active lifestyles

• Halo - surrounding accent diamonds visually enlarge the square stone

• Three-stone - a princess cut centre flanked by baguettes or tapered side stones complements the angular geometry naturally

For more details on corner protection and setting security, see our bezel set engagement ring guide.

---

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a princess cut diamond?

A princess cut diamond is a square diamond with sharp corners and a brilliant-cut facet arrangement (typically 58 facets). It produces very high brilliance, close to a round diamond, inside a crisp, geometric square outline. It is the second most popular diamond shape globally.

What shape is a princess cut diamond?

The princess cut is square with sharp, pointed corners and a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. Ratios above 1.05 produce a slightly rectangular appearance. The sharp corners are the defining visual characteristic that distinguishes it from cushion or radiant cuts.

Are princess cut diamonds out of style?

No, Princess cut diamonds remain the second most popular diamond shape globally and continue to be consistently requested in Australia. Oval shapes have grown in popularity recently, but the princess cut has a permanent place in modern jewellery design, particularly for buyers who prefer geometric, angular rings.

Is a princess cut diamond good for daily wear?

Yes, with the right setting. The stone itself rates 10 on the Mohs scale and is extremely durable. The sharp corners are the only mild vulnerability, addressed completely by V-tip prongs or a corner bezel setting. Properly set, a princess cut diamond wears reliably for decades.

What does a princess cut diamond mean?

The princess cut is associated with strength, modernity, and confident personal style. The sharp geometric lines project clarity and decisiveness, the choice of someone who values bold, architectural design over soft or traditional forms.

How does princess cut compare to round cut?

Princess cut diamonds are very similar in brilliance to round diamonds but typically less expensive per carat, because cutting a square wastes less rough stone. The sparkle pattern differs - princess cuts show square flashes of light rather than the uniform circular sparkle of a round. Round diamonds still rank first for maximum light return overall.

How many facets does a princess cut diamond have?

A princess cut diamond typically has 58 facets, arranged in a modified brilliant-cut pattern. Some variations have between 50 and 58 facets depending on the cutting technique used.