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Diamond Shapes Guide: Which Shape Speaks to You?
Choosing a diamond shape is one of the most personal decisions you'll make in the entire jewellery buying journey. Unlike colour or clarity, where higher grades are objectively better, shape comes down entirely to personality, style, and what resonates with you or your partner.
From the unmatched brilliance of a round diamond to the vintage glamour of an Asscher cut, each shape tells a different story. Some elongate the finger. Some maximise sparkle. Some turn heads with their uniqueness. Some carry centuries of romantic history.
This guide walks through the ten most popular diamond shapes available in Australia today, covering their personality, strengths, considerations, and the specifications to look for when choosing each one.
Shape vs. Cut: Getting the Terms Right
Before exploring individual shapes, it's worth clarifying a distinction that confuses many buyers:
Shape = The visual outline and form of the diamond (round, oval, pear, etc.)
Cut = The quality of craftsmanship within that shape (Excellent, Very Good, Good, etc.)
Every shape can be crafted with excellent or poor workmanship. A beautifully cut oval will consistently outperform a poorly cut round. Whichever shape you choose, always insist on Excellent or Very Good cut quality.
The 10 Most Popular Diamond Shapes
1. Round Brilliant
The undisputed classic. Round brilliant diamonds account for the majority of diamond sales in Australia and worldwide, and for very good reason.
Developed through decades of mathematical refinement, the round brilliant's 57-58 facets are specifically engineered to maximise light return. No other shape comes close to its light performance.
Character: Timeless, universally flattering, endlessly elegant
Strengths:
• Unmatched brilliance and fire
• Works beautifully with any setting style
• Flatters every hand shape and finger length
• Conceals colour and inclusions better than most shapes
• Easiest to match with wedding bands
Considerations:
• Higher price per carat than fancy shapes
• Less distinctive, more common than other options
Best specifications:
• Cut: Excellent only
• Colour: G-H
• Clarity: VS2-SI1
• Table: 54-57%
• Depth: 59-62.5%
Best for: Those who want maximum sparkle with timeless style
2. Oval
The oval has become one of Australia's fastest growing diamond choices, and it's easy to understand why. It delivers near-round brilliance with an elongated silhouette that's distinctly modern yet enduringly elegant.
Ovals face up larger than round diamonds of identical carat weight, making them a smart choice for buyers who want visual impact without the round's price premium.
Character: Contemporary, flattering, distinctive yet wearable
Strengths:
• Appears approximately 10% larger than the equivalent round
• Elongates and slims the finger beautifully
• Excellent light performance and sparkle
• Often 10-20% less expensive per carat than round
Considerations:
• Most ovals exhibit some "bowtie effect", a dark shadow across the centre
• Inspect each stone individually; bowtie severity varies considerably
• Requires careful assessment of the length-to-width ratio
Best specifications:
• Length-to-width ratio: 1.35-1.50
• Colour: G-H
• Clarity: VS2-SI1
• Depth: 58-62%
• Assess bowtie severity before purchasing
Best for: Those wanting something distinctive with finger-flattering elongation
3. Pear
The pear shape, sometimes called a teardrop, combines the rounded brilliance of a round with the tapered elegance of a marquise. Worn with the point facing outward, it creates a graceful, elongating effect on the hand.
Pear-shaped diamonds are particularly popular for pendants and drop earrings, though they make striking engagement rings for those drawn to their romantic silhouette.
Character: Romantic, graceful, quietly dramatic
Strengths:
• Appears larger than its carat weight
• Dramatically elongates the finger
• Versatile, beautiful in rings, pendants, and earrings
• Unique appearance with strong visual presence
Considerations:
• Pointed tip requires a protective V-prong setting
• Can exhibit a bowtie effect across the centre
• Symmetry is essential - uneven shoulders are immediately noticeable
• Worn point-up or point-down based on personal preference
Best specifications:
• Length-to-width ratio: 1.50-1.75
• Colour: G-H
• Clarity: VS2-SI1
• Depth: 58-62%
• Prioritise excellent shoulder symmetry
Best for: Those drawn to romantic, graceful shapes with a distinctive silhouette
4. Princess
The princess cut is the most popular fancy shape in Australia, a contemporary square diamond with brilliant-cut faceting that delivers impressive sparkle in a modern geometric form.
Its clean lines and sharp corners give it a distinctly modern character, while its brilliant faceting ensures it holds its own against the round for light performance.
Character: Modern, precise, boldly contemporary
Strengths:
• Excellent brilliance, closest to round among fancy shapes
• Contemporary square outline suits modern tastes
• Conceals inclusions effectively
• Typically less expensive per carat than round
Considerations:
• Sharp corners are vulnerable to chipping without protection
• V-prong or bezel settings are essential for corner security
• May concentrate colour in corners, check carefully
Best specifications:
• Length-to-width ratio: 1.00-1.05 for square appearance
• Colour: G-H
• Clarity: VS2-SI1
• Depth: 65-75%
• Confirm corner protection in chosen setting
Best for: Those who love geometric precision with brilliant sparkle
5. Asscher
Named after the Dutch jeweller who developed it in 1902, the Asscher cut is having a genuine moment in Australian jewellery. Its square shape with deeply cropped corners and step-cut faceting creates a mesmerising "hall of mirrors" optical effect unlike any brilliant cut.
The Asscher carries a strong Art Deco heritage - it was beloved during the 1920s and has found a new generation of admirers who appreciate its understated sophistication.
Character: Vintage, architectural, quietly mesmerising
Strengths:
• Distinctive "hall of mirrors" visual effect
• Strong Art Deco character and heritage
• Cropped corners prevent chipping
• Truly unique appearance among popular shapes
Considerations:
• Step-cut faceting reveals colour and inclusions more readily
• Requires higher colour and clarity grades than brilliant cuts
• Less sparkle than brilliant cuts, it offers elegant flashes instead
• Not for those seeking maximum fire and brilliance
Best specifications:
• Length-to-width ratio: 1.00-1.05
• Colour: F-G (step cuts show colour more easily)
• Clarity: VS1-VS2 (inclusions more visible)
• Depth: 60-68%
Best for: Vintage enthusiasts and those who appreciate understated architectural elegance
6. Heart
The most symbolically loaded of all diamond shapes, a heart diamond makes an unmistakable declaration of love and romance. It requires exceptional skill to cut well, as even minor asymmetry is immediately apparent.
Heart diamonds work beautifully as pendants and are increasingly chosen for engagement rings by those who want their jewellery to carry obvious romantic meaning.
Character: Romantic, sentimental, boldly expressive
Strengths:
• Powerful romantic symbolism
• Unmistakably distinctive
• Good brilliance when expertly cut
• Especially meaningful for romantic occasions
Considerations:
• Symmetry is critical - even slight asymmetry is distracting
• Smaller stones (under 0.50ct) lose shape definition
• The cleft and pointed tip both require protective settings
• Very specific aesthetic, appeals strongly or not at all
Best specifications:
• Length-to-width ratio: 0.90-1.10 for a balanced heart shape
• Colour: G-H
• Clarity: VS2-SI1
• Minimum recommended size: 0.50ct for clear shape definition
• Assess symmetry carefully from all angles
Best for: Romantics who want their diamond to speak for itself
7. Emerald
The emerald cut is the choice of those who value sophistication over showiness. Its long rectangular facets and open table create elegant flashes of light, more like gazing into a clear pool than watching fireworks, and its elongated form gives it effortless glamour.
Old Hollywood icons favoured emerald cuts, and their popularity among those who appreciate refined elegance has never wavered.
Character: Sophisticated, elegant, quietly commanding
Strengths:
• Effortlessly sophisticated appearance
• Elongated form makes fingers appear longer and more slender
• Creates distinctive light flashes rather than conventional sparkle
• Timeless appeal associated with classic elegance
Considerations:
• Step-cut faceting makes colour and inclusions considerably more visible
• Requires higher colour and clarity grades than brilliant cuts
• Significantly less sparkle than round or oval
• "Windowing" (transparency) can occur with poorly proportioned stones
Best specifications:
• Length-to-width ratio: 1.30-1.50 for classic; 1.50+ for elongated
• Colour: F-G
• Clarity: VS1-VS2
• Depth: 60-68%
• Look for even, symmetrical step facets
Best for: Those who gravitate toward understated sophistication and classic glamour
8. Radiant
The radiant cut occupies a unique position: it has the rectangular outline of an emerald cut but the brilliant faceting of a round. The result is a shape that combines the elongated elegance of step cuts with the dazzling sparkle of brilliant cuts.
Radiant cuts are less common than rounds or ovals, which appeals to buyers who want something distinctive without sacrificing light performance.
Character: Versatile, vibrant, unexpectedly brilliant
Strengths:
• Combines emerald's silhouette with the round's sparkle
• Brilliant faceting conceals inclusions effectively
• Cropped corners prevent chipping
• Available in square or rectangular proportions
Considerations:
• Less widely available than other shapes
• Rectangular varieties can exhibit some bowtie effect
• Corners can appear slightly dark in some lighting
Best specifications:
• Square: Length-to-width ratio 1.00-1.05
• Rectangular: Length-to-width ratio 1.20-1.50
• Colour: G-H
• Clarity: VS2-SI1
• Depth: 61-67%
Best for: Those who want an emerald's shape with a brilliant cut's sparkle
9. Cushion
The cushion cut, named for its pillow-like appearance with rounded corners and larger facets, sits at a beautiful intersection of vintage character and modern appeal. It's been one of the most popular diamond shapes for over two centuries, and its enduring appeal speaks to its timeless romance.
Australian buyers often describe the cushion as "soft" and "romantic", a shape that feels warmer and more personal than angular alternatives.
Character: Romantic, warm, timelessly appealing
Strengths:
• Soft, romantic silhouette with strong vintage character
• Excellent fire, colourful light flashes are particularly vivid
• Hides inclusions reasonably well
• Available in square or elongated proportions
Considerations:
• Two distinct faceting styles: "chunky" (defined facets) and "crushed ice" (scattered sparkle), choose based on personal preference
• Can retain colour in corners more than a round
• Less brilliance than a round brilliant cut
Best specifications:
• Square: Length-to-width ratio 1.00-1.10
• Elongated: Length-to-width ratio 1.15-1.30
• Colour: G-H
• Clarity: VS2-SI1
• Depth: 61-68%
Best for: Those drawn to romantic, vintage-inspired shapes with modern versatility
10. Marquise
The marquise is the most dramatic of all diamond shapes, an elongated stone with two pointed ends that creates a striking, unmistakable silhouette. Originating from 18th-century France, it was reportedly commissioned by King Louis XV to resemble the lips of his companion, the Marquise de Pompadour.
The marquise offers the largest face-up appearance of any diamond shape per carat weight, making it the go-to choice for those who want maximum visual presence.
Character: Dramatic, historic, unmistakably distinctive
Strengths:
• Largest face-up appearance per carat of any shape, up to 15% larger than round
• Dramatically elongates and slenders the finger
• Rich historical heritage and storytelling
• Creates immediate visual impact
Considerations:
• Both pointed ends require protective V-prong settings
• The bowtie effect is common - inspect the severity carefully
• Symmetry is critical; misaligned tips are immediately apparent
• Can feel dated without a contemporary setting
Best specifications:
• Length-to-width ratio: 1.85-2.10
• Colour: G-H
• Clarity: VS2-SI1
• Depth: 58-62%
• Assess bowtie and tip symmetry carefully
Best for: Those wanting maximum size presence and dramatic finger elongation
| Shape | Sparkle Level | Size Appearance | Conceals Inclusions | Relative Price | Personality |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Round | ★★★★★ | Standard | Excellent | Highest | Timeless |
| Oval | ★★★★☆ | +10% larger | Very Good | Moderate | Contemporary |
| Pear | ★★★★☆ | +10% larger | Very Good | Moderate | Romantic |
| Princess | ★★★★☆ | Standard | Very Good | Moderate | Modern |
| Asscher | ★★★☆☆ | Standard | Fair | Moderate | Vintage |
| Heart | ★★★★☆ | Standard | Good | Moderate | Sentimental |
| Emerald | ★★★☆☆ | +5% larger | Fair | Lower | Sophisticated |
| Radiant | ★★★★☆ | +5% larger | Very Good | Moderate | Versatile |
| Cushion | ★★★★☆ | Standard | Good | Lower | Romantic |
| Marquise | ★★★★☆ | +15% larger | Good | Lower | Dramatic |
Choosing the Right Shape for Your Hand
Finger Length
• Short fingers: Elongated shapes (oval, marquise, pear, emerald) create the illusion of length
• Long fingers: Any shape works; wider shapes (cushion, princess) add pleasing balance
• Average fingers: Every shape suits, choose based purely on personal preference
Finger Width
• Narrow fingers: Smaller stones in delicate settings; avoid very wide shapes
• Wider fingers: Elongated shapes slenderize; larger stones look proportional
• Average width: Most shapes and sizes suit comfortably
Hand Size
• Petite hands: 0.50-1.20ct typically looks proportional; elongated shapes maximize presence
• Larger hands: Can carry 1.50ct+ comfortably; wider shapes look balanced
Lifestyle
• Active lifestyle: Avoid exposed pointed tips (marquise, pear) without protective settings; consider bezel setting
• Low maintenance preference: Round and cushion are most forgiving; avoid step cuts if you prefer easy care
Frequently Asked Questions
Which diamond shape is most popular in Australia?
Round brilliant remains the most purchased shape across Australia, representing approximately 60% of engagement ring diamonds. Oval has grown significantly in recent years, particularly among younger buyers, while cushion and princess also maintain consistent popularity.
Which shape looks largest for its carat weight?
Marquise appears the largest per carat, up to 15% bigger face-up than a round of equivalent weight. Oval and pear both appear approximately 10% larger. These elongated shapes distribute weight across a greater surface area, creating more visual presence for each carat.
Which diamond shape has the most sparkle?
Round brilliant produces the most sparkle, engineered specifically for maximum light return. Princess, oval, and radiant also deliver excellent brilliance through their brilliant-cut faceting. Step-cut shapes (emerald, Asscher) produce elegant light flashes rather than conventional sparkle, sophisticated but fundamentally different.
Which shape is most affordable?
Emerald, Asscher, cushion, and marquise cuts typically cost 20-40% less per carat than round diamonds. The precision required to cut round diamonds and the greater rough material lost in the process explain the premium. Any fancy shape offers better carat value than a round.
Can I change a diamond's shape later?
No. Once cut, a diamond's shape is permanent. Recutting into a different shape would require removing significant material, dramatically reducing carat weight and value. Choose your shape thoughtfully from the beginning.
Which shapes work best for step-cut lovers on a budget?
Emerald cut offers the best value among step cuts, typically less expensive per carat than Asscher. Both require higher colour and clarity grades (F-G colour, VS1-VS2 clarity) due to their transparent faceting, which should be factored into budget planning.
Does a diamond shape affect durability?
Shapes with pointed ends (princess corners, pear and marquise tips) require protective settings to prevent chipping. Round, cushion, and oval have no vulnerable points and are naturally more robust. Proper setting style eliminates most durability concerns for any shape.
Find Your Shape
Every diamond shape has its own story, character, and appeal. The right choice is the one that resonates with you, whether that's the timeless brilliance of a round, the dramatic elongation of a marquise, or the vintage soul of an Asscher. Our team in Brisbane is passionate about helping Australians find their perfect match. Explore our collection across all shapes and discover the one that speaks to you.
